Financing on Feeders also now available! Payments less than the amount of money you’ll save on Hay Costs!
Menu
Menu
When you think about running a farm—whether small-scale homesteading or a larger livestock operation—one of the most overlooked yet crucial aspects is how you feed your animals.
For anyone raising cattle, sheep, goats, or horses, hay is a staple food source. But simply tossing hay on the ground is wasteful, messy, and can lead to contamination. That’s where a hay feeder becomes essential.
A hay feeder is more than simply a piece of equipment; it is an investment in efficiency and animal health. Animals pulling hay off the ground often trample more than they eat, resulting in wasted money on spoiled feed.
Worse, they might ingest dirt, manure, or parasites along with their food. A good hay feeder minimizes waste, keeps hay clean, and ensures livestock can eat comfortably.
Building your own hay feeder is a smart DIY project that saves money while allowing you to create something specifically for your animals’ requirements.
Buying commercial feeders can cost hundreds of dollars, sometimes even thousands, depending on size and material. For many farmers, especially those who are beginners, that’s not feasible.
But with some basic tools, affordable materials, and a weekend of work, you can build a hay feeder that rivals store-bought ones at a fraction of the cost.
This guide will walk you through every step—from understanding different types of feeders to gathering tools, making design choices, and building your own. Whether you want a simple wooden rack for a few goats or a large bale feeder for cattle, you’ll find everything you need here.
Think of it as not just a construction project but an opportunity to bring resourcefulness back into farming—doing more with less, and creating something with your own hands that will serve you for years.
Imagine buying a load of hay bales for the season, only to watch half of it turn into bedding instead of food because your animals trample it into the mud. That’s the reality for many farmers who don’t use hay feeders.
Beyond waste, the issue of cleanliness comes into play. Livestock can easily spread parasites through contaminated feed. For example, when goats or sheep nibble on hay that has been trampled or contaminated with droppings, they’re more likely to develop internal worms, which can result to costly veterinary bills and a decline in herd health.
Another critical factor is animal safety. Feeding directly on the ground may cause injuries or choking hazards if the hay becomes clumped. Feeders solve this problem by regulating how animals access hay—keeping it elevated, controlled, and safer to consume.
Additionally, for herd animals, feeders reduce fighting and competition by providing everyone with fair access to the food source.
From an economic perspective, hay feeders save money. According to farm management studies, proper feeders can reduce hay waste by up to 30–40%. That’s a huge margin when you consider how expensive hay can be, especially during winter months when pastures are bare.
By building your own feeder, you’re not just creating a tool—you’re making a system that ensures maximum use of every bale you buy.
Finally, hay feeders contribute to farm cleanliness and efficiency. Instead of dealing with messy feeding areas, feeders help keep barns and pastures tidy—less mud, less spoiled hay, and less frustration for the farmer.
And let’s be honest: anything that makes daily chores easier is worth its weight in gold. So, when you ask, “Do I really need a hay feeder?”—the short answer is yes. Not only does it improve your animals’ health, but it also saves you time and money in the long run.
If you’ve ever priced hay feeders at farm supply stores, you already know how expensive they can be. A small goat feeder might cost $200–$400, while larger cattle bale feeders can easily hit $800–$1,200.
For a farmer managing multiple groups of livestock, these costs quickly add up. But here’s the truth: most of these feeders are made of relatively simple materials—wood, steel, or heavy-duty mesh—that you can source at a hardware store for a fraction of the price.
Building your own hay feeder allows you to customize it exactly to your needs. For example, if your goats are notorious for climbing into feeders (a common issue), you can design one with narrower slats.
You may want a feeder with wheels so you can move it between pastures. Store-bought options rarely fit every situation, but a DIY project gives you complete control over the outcome.
The real financial advantage comes in the form of reduced hay waste. Let’s say you feed goats and lose about 20% of each bale to waste because they pull it out and trample it.
If a bale costs $8 and you feed 200 bales a year, that’s $320 literally going to waste. A homemade feeder that cuts waste down to 5–10% pays for itself in the first season. Multiply that by several years, and the savings are undeniable.
Another hidden benefit is repairability. Store-bought feeders often become useless once they’re broken. But when you’ve built your own, you know exactly how to fix it. Need to replace a broken board? You can do it in an afternoon. Need to reinforce a weak joint? Grab some screws and brackets. This makes DIY feeders long-lasting investments, not disposable purchases.
Ultimately, the decision to build your own feeder is about empowerment. Farming is expensive, and any opportunity to cut costs without compromising quality is a win. Instead of spending hundreds on equipment that may not even last, you can build something more substantial, cheaper, and better suited to your farm—all while gaining the satisfaction of creating it with your own two hands.
Not all hay feeders are created equal. Before you pick up a hammer, it’s essential to understand the various types available and which one might be best suited for your animals. The kind you choose will depend on livestock size, feeding habits, and how much hay you typically provide at once.
One of the most basic distinctions is between ground feeders and elevated feeders. Ground feeders are positioned closer to the soil and are often used for larger animals, such as cattle, where waste is less of an issue. Elevated feeders, on the other hand, are raised off the ground to keep hay clean—ideal for goats, sheep, and horses.
You’ll also hear about round bale feeders versus square bale feeders. Round bale feeders are designed for large herds that consume big bales at a time. They often feature a circular design with metal or wooden bars, allowing animals to feed from all sides.
Square bale feeders, on the other hand, are better for small-scale farmers. They’re usually rectangular racks that hold one or two bales at a time—perfect for small barns or homesteads.
Another consideration is mobility. Portable feeders can be moved around the pasture to prevent overgrazing in one spot and to make chores easier. These are particularly useful for rotational grazing systems. Stationary feeders, on the other hand, are heavy-duty and meant to stay put, often inside barns or shelters where hay is stored.
Each type has its pros and cons, and knowing these will help you decide what’s best for your operation. In short, goats and sheep do best with elevated, slatted feeders to reduce waste; cattle benefit from larger round bale feeders; horses require specially designed feeders that minimize dust inhalation; and poultry, while not hay eaters, sometimes use small rack-style feeders for straw.
Understanding these categories sets the stage for planning your own build, ensuring your feeder will work with—not against—your animals’ natural behavior.
When choosing between a ground feeder and an elevated feeder, consider your livestock’s size, habits, and feeding environment.
Ground feeders are typically placed at or just above ground level. They’re often simple troughs, pans, or low racks, making them accessible for large livestock, such as cattle. The significant advantage here is convenience: animals can feed naturally at head level, and building these feeders requires fewer materials and less time.
However, the drawback is that the spilled waste hay is quickly trampled and spoiled. For smaller animals like goats or sheep, ground feeders can even become climbing platforms, which means they may dirty the hay or injure themselves.
Elevated feeders, on the other hand, are built higher off the ground, usually supported by posts or a frame. These are especially useful for smaller animals that tend to be messy eaters. By elevating hay, you minimize contamination and force animals to eat more carefully.
Elevated designs also make cleaning easier since less hay ends up on the ground. The downside is that construction may be a bit more complex, requiring extra wood, nails, or brackets to support the weight of hay and animals pulling against it.
If you’re feeding goats, sheep, or horses, an elevated feeder is generally the better option. For cattle, ground feeders work fine, provided they’re sturdy enough to withstand heavy use.
A clever approach is combining both styles—keeping round bales in ground-level feeders for cattle while offering elevated racks for smaller livestock. In this way, you maximize efficiency while maintaining everyone well-fed.
Another big decision is whether your feeder should hold round bales or square bales. Round bales are typically used in large operations because they provide massive amounts of feed at once, reducing daily chores.
A round bale feeder is circular, featuring bars or slats that allow animals to pull hay without scattering it excessively. For cattle, this is the go-to option. These feeders can be stationary rings or built with gates to allow access from multiple sides.
The main drawback is size—moving round bales often requires a tractor or skid steer, which may not be practical for small farms.
Square bale feeders are more suited for smaller farms or homesteads where animals consume less hay at a time. A square bale fits neatly into a rack, trough, or V-shaped feeder.
These feeders are easier to build and move around, and they work great for goats, sheep, or horses. Since square bales are lighter and easier to handle manually, this option saves money if you don’t have heavy machinery.
Each has pros and cons. Round bale feeders save labor but require big equipment and upfront investment. Square bale feeders require more frequent refilling but are more flexible and practical for small-scale farming.
Many farmers use both, depending on herd size and season. For example, during winter, when animals are consuming more hay, round bale feeders make sense. In summer or for smaller groups, square bale feeders are the better option.
Should your feeder be portable or stationary? That depends on how you manage your livestock. Portable feeders are lightweight and often built on skids or wheels, allowing you to drag them across the pasture. They’re excellent for rotational grazing systems, where animals are frequently moved to fresh ground. By moving the feeder, you prevent muddy, trampled areas and spread manure evenly across your fields. Portable feeders also give you flexibility—if you need to bring animals into a barn or a different paddock, the feeder comes with them.
Stationary feeders, on the other hand, are heavy, sturdy structures that stay in one place. These are often built inside barns, sheds, or feeding stations where animals come daily. They’re more durable than portable feeders and can be designed to hold a larger amount of hay. The downside, of course, is that animals congregate in one area, which can lead to mud, manure buildup, and overgrazing around the feeder.
The choice comes down to your farm’s layout. If you can move feeders and prefer spreading out the feeding pressure, portable is the way to go. If you’d rather centralize feeding and don’t mind extra cleanup, stationary feeders are simpler to build and maintain. Some farmers even compromise by making semi-portable feeders—heavy but still movable with a tractor or ATV when necessary.
Before you begin construction, gather the necessary tools and materials. The beauty of a DIY hay feeder is that you don’t need specialized equipment—just the basics that most farmers already have in their shop.
Tools you’ll need include:
Materials vary depending on design, but common ones include:
Don’t forget safety gear: gloves, goggles, and steel-toed boots are musts when working with wood and power tools. If you’re welding a metal feeder, you’ll also need a welder, welding rods, and proper protective gear, such as a welding mask and fire-resistant clothing.
The best part? Most feeders can be built with salvaged or recycled materials. Old pallets, scrap lumber, or leftover fencing can often be repurposed into durable feeders. This not only cuts costs but also adds a sustainable element to your farm practices.
Now comes the creative part: designing your feeder. Begin by considering the size of your livestock. Goats and sheep require narrow slats so they can reach hay without needing to climb in. Horses need open feeders with smooth edges to avoid injuries. Cattle require large, sturdy frames that can withstand pressure from heavy bodies leaning against them.
Next, consider the shape of your feeder. Box-style feeders are versatile and straightforward, while trough feeders work well for square bales. V-shaped racks reduce waste by funneling hay down as animals eat. Some farmers even build combination feeders with both hay racks and grain troughs for added efficiency.
Mobility and ease of cleaning are also key factors. Ask yourself: Do you want a feeder that stays put, or do you need to move it weekly? Will a manure pile accumulate beneath it, and if so, can it be cleaned easily with a skid steer? Is the design simple enough to repair if a board breaks? Thinking ahead saves headaches later.
The planning phase is where you make decisions that determine how well your feeder performs. Sketch your design, measure your materials, and plan cuts before picking up a saw. A well-thought-out feeder is safer, lasts longer, and ultimately saves you more money.
Building your own hay feeder might sound intimidating, but once you break it down into steps, it’s surprisingly manageable. A wooden feeder is an excellent choice for beginners—it’s cost-effective, easy to work with, and customizable for different livestock. Below, we’ll go through the process step by step.
The first step is preparation. Gather your materials and ensure that you have all the necessary tools laid out in one place. Treated lumber is best because it resists rot and lasts longer, especially if your feeder will sit outside. A typical design might require:
Start by measuring out the dimensions of your feeder. For goats or sheep, a feeder about 3–4 feet tall is ideal. For cattle, you’ll want something sturdier and taller—closer to 5–6 feet. Horses need even more space, so keep that in mind when designing.
Once you’ve measured, cut your boards accordingly. A circular saw makes the job quicker, but a handsaw will suffice if you don’t have access to power tools. Be precise here—uneven boards lead to wobbly feeders, which can be unsafe. Labeling your pieces as you cut them helps avoid confusion later when assembling.
Finally, sand down any pointy edges or splinters. Livestock can injure their mouths or eyes on jagged wood, so taking a few minutes to smooth surfaces makes a big difference in animal safety.
With your pieces cut, it’s time to build the frame. The frame is the skeleton of your feeder, so ensure it’s square and sturdy. Begin by attaching the four 4×4 posts as legs, using heavy-duty screws or carriage bolts. These posts should be anchored into the ground if you’re building a stationary feeder, or attached to skids if you want mobility.
Next, connect the legs with horizontal 2x4s at both the top and bottom, forming a rectangular box shape. This creates stability and gives you a base to attach slats or panels. Use a level as you go to ensure everything is level.
For larger feeders, consider cross-bracing—diagonal boards that connect opposite corners of the frame. This prevents wobbling and gives extra strength against heavy animals pressing against it. A feeder without reinforcement may collapse over time, mainly when used by cattle.
If you’re making a trough-style feeder, now is the time to add a plywood bottom. Secure it firmly, ensuring there are no gaps where hay could slip out unnecessarily. This trough helps catch loose hay, minimizing waste.
Once the frame is sturdy, it’s time to add the components that hold the hay. This is where you decide how animals will access their feed.
For goats and sheep, vertical slats spaced about 4–6 inches apart work best. They allow animals to pull hay through without letting them jump inside. Be careful with spacing—too exhaustive, and animals will climb in; too narrow, and they’ll struggle to reach hay.
For cattle, metal livestock panels or heavy-duty mesh are often the better choice. These can be cut and attached to the frame with screws or brackets. They hold hay securely while giving enough space for cows to pull out mouthfuls without wasting too much.
If you’re building for horses, smooth boards or rounded rails are preferable to mesh, which can cause injuries. Horses have sensitive muzzles, and sharp edges are a hazard. A V-shaped design works exceptionally well for them, as it funnels hay downward and keeps it within easy reach.
The goal here is to strike a balance between accessibility and waste prevention. Animals should be able to eat comfortably, but not yank out giant clumps that end up on the ground.
With the slats or mesh in place, your hay feeder is nearly complete. Now comes the finishing work, which is just as important as the construction itself.
Start by inspecting all joints and connections. Are the screws or bolts tight? Are there any sharp edges or exposed nails? If so, fix them immediately. Animals will rub against feeders constantly, so anything sharp can lead to cuts or infections.
Next, consider whether you want to weatherproof your feeder. If it will sit outdoors, applying a non-toxic sealant can help protect the wood from rain and snow. Avoid harsh chemicals—remember, your animals will be eating inches away from these surfaces.
Additionally, consider adding a simple roof or cover if you live in a climate with frequent rainfall. Corrugated tin, plastic panels, or even a stretched tarp can work. This keeps hay dry, reducing the risk of spoilage and mold.
Finally, test the feeder before filling it with hay. Push on it, shake it, and check for wobbling. A well-built feeder should feel solid, with no risk of tipping. Once you’re satisfied, load it up with hay and watch how your animals interact with it. Sometimes, you’ll need to make minor adjustments based on their behavior.
At the end of the day, the satisfaction of watching your livestock eat comfortably from something you built with your own hands is worth the effort. Not only will you save money, but you’ll also know that your animals are eating safely and efficiently.
Building your hay feeder is only the first step—maintaining it ensures it lasts for years to come. Even the strongest feeders wear down over time, especially with large livestock constantly pulling, pushing, and rubbing against them. Without regular maintenance, minor problems can quickly escalate into significant issues.
Start by inspecting your feeder at least once a week. Look for loose screws, cracked boards, or bent panels. Goats, in particular, are notorious for climbing on feeders, so pay attention to the structural integrity of joints and corners. A quick repair with a screw or bracket can prevent a total collapse later on.
Cleaning is another important aspect of maintenance. Old hay and manure tend to accumulate underneath feeders, creating muddy and unsanitary conditions. This can attract pests, spread disease, and even lead to hoof problems for your animals. Shoveling out debris regularly and relocating portable feeders helps keep the ground clean and dry.
Weatherproofing also extends the life of a feeder. If you built with untreated wood, consider sealing it with a livestock-safe coating. For feeders that stay outdoors year-round, a small roof or cover can drastically reduce rot and hay spoilage. Metal feeders may require periodic rust treatment or repainting to maintain strength.
The real key to longevity is proactive care. Don’t wait for a board to snap or for your animals to injure themselves on a broken piece. A feeder is more than just a tool—it’s an investment in your livestock’s well-being. By giving it a little attention every week, you can keep it in top condition for five, ten, or even fifteen years.
Different livestock have distinct feeding habits, and your feeder should be designed to accommodate these differences. While a simple wooden rack might work for goats, it won’t hold up against cattle, and it certainly won’t be safe for horses. Here’s how you can adapt your design depending on the type of animal:
Adapting your feeder to your animals’ needs is the best way to minimize waste, enhance safety, and make feeding times stress-free.
Many farmers dive into building a hay feeder without much planning, only to discover problems later. You can save money, time, and frustration by avoiding common mistakes.
One of the biggest mistakes is improper spacing of slats or mesh. If the gaps are too broad, animals climb in, dirtying the hay. Too narrow, and they can’t reach the feed properly. Always match spacing to the size of the animal’s head.
Another standard error is using weak materials. While it might be tempting to save money with thin boards or cheap screws, remember your feeder will endure constant pressure. Goats chew, horses kick, and cattle lean. If your feeder isn’t sturdy, it won’t last long.
Some builders also forget about drainage and cleaning. A feeder that sits directly on muddy ground will deteriorate quickly, and the buildup of manure beneath it creates health hazards. Elevating your feeder slightly or designing it on skids helps keep it cleaner and drier.
Finally, don’t overlook safety. Exposed nails, sharp wire edges, or rough cuts can cause injury to animals. Take the time to sand the wood, round the corners, and secure the fasteners. A few extra minutes during construction prevent costly vet bills later.
In short, plan carefully, use quality materials, and think like your animals. If you can prevent them from climbing in, hurting themselves, or wasting hay, your feeder will be a success.
One of the best parts about building your own hay feeder is that you can do it on a budget—and often, that means using recycled materials. Old pallets, scrap lumber, and leftover fencing are goldmines for DIY projects. Not only does this save you money, but it also makes farming more sustainable by reusing resources that might otherwise go to waste.
Pallet wood is particularly popular. With a bit of disassembly, pallets provide sturdy planks perfect for feeder slats. Old gates, hog panels, or wire fencing can also be repurposed into hay racks. Even worn-out barrels or tanks can be cut and converted into trough-style feeders.
Of course, safety is key when using salvaged materials. Steer clear of wood that has undergone dangerous chemical treatment, and check metal for rust or sharp edges. Always ensure materials are strong enough to withstand the pressure of livestock.
The beauty of recycled feeders is their uniqueness. No two are exactly alike, and many farmers take pride in creating functional feeders out of “junk.” Beyond the cost savings, it’s satisfying to know you built something useful while reducing waste. Plus, your animals won’t care if their feeder came from a pallet—they’ll just be happy to have fresh, clean hay.
Safety should be at the very top of your priority list when designing a hay feeder. A poorly built feeder can cause more problems than it solves—injuries, wasted hay, or even structural collapse. Taking the time to address potential hazards upfront ensures your animals stay healthy and your feeder lasts longer.
First, pay attention to sharp edges and hardware. Screws, nails, or bolts sticking out even slightly can scratch or cut livestock. Goats and sheep love to rub against feeders, and horses are notorious for catching their skin on anything protruding. Always countersink screws when possible, grind down sharp metal edges, and sand rough boards to a smooth finish.
Second, consider spacing. If the feeder’s gaps are too broad, smaller animals may attempt to squeeze their heads through and become stuck—a frightening and potentially deadly situation. On the other hand, if the spacing is too narrow, animals will be unable to pull hay easily, leading to frustration and waste. Always size the openings according to your livestock’s muzzle dimensions.
Weight and stability are also crucial. A feeder that tips over can injure animals or trap them in place. Make sure the base is wide enough for stability, and if you’re building a large feeder for cattle, use heavy-duty posts or anchoring to keep it upright. For portable feeders, skids or wide legs prevent sinking into soft ground.
Finally, don’t forget about weather safety. If your feeder will be outdoors, avoid materials that become dangerously slippery when wet, such as smooth sheet metal. Consider adding a simple cover to keep hay dry and reduce mold growth. Moldy hay is particularly hazardous, especially for horses, as it can lead to respiratory illnesses in these animals.
By keeping safety in mind from start to finish, you protect your animals and yourself. Remember—your feeder isn’t just a piece of equipment; it’s something your animals will interact with on a daily basis. Building it thoughtfully means peace of mind every time you toss in a bale.
One of the strongest arguments for building your own hay feeder is the cost savings it offers. Let’s break it down with some real-world examples.
A store-bought small feeder for goats or sheep typically costs between $200 and $400. Larger round bale feeders for cattle usually range from $800 to $1,200, and specialized horse feeders can exceed $1,500. That’s a significant investment, especially if you need multiple feeders for different pastures or groups of animals.
In contrast, a DIY wooden feeder can be built for under $100 to $150 using new lumber, and even less if you use salvaged materials. For example, four treated 4×4 posts ($40), a handful of 2x4s ($30), screws and hardware ($20), and some plywood or livestock panels ($30) is enough to build a strong, medium-sized feeder. If you already have some of these supplies on hand, the cost drops dramatically.
Metal feeders are more expensive to build, especially if welding is required. However, using old livestock panels, gates, or scrap steel can still reduce costs to a fraction of those for store-bought options. Many farmers report saving 50–70% by building their own feeders.
It’s not just about upfront costs, either. Store-bought feeders often need replacement after a few years. A well-built DIY feeder, appropriately maintained, can last a decade or longer. Add in the fact that DIY feeders are repairable—you can replace a broken board instead of tossing the whole feeder—and the long-term savings are undeniable.
When you look at the numbers, building your own hay feeder is a clear win. You’re not just saving money—you’re creating a durable, customized piece of equipment that fits your farm perfectly.
Even the best feeder won’t completely eliminate hay waste, but with some innovative strategies, you can cut it down to almost nothing.
Every minor adjustment adds up. If you can reduce hay waste by even 20%, you’ll save hundreds of dollars each year. That money can go right back into improving your farm—or simply into your pocket.
As farming practices shift toward sustainability, many farmers are reevaluating how they design equipment, including hay feeders. Eco-friendly feeders not only save money but also reduce environmental impact.
One popular approach is using recycled materials, such as pallets, old fencing, or barrels, which not only prevents waste but also reduces the need for new lumber. Some farmers go a step further by building feeders with locally sourced wood or bamboo, which is renewable and naturally resistant to pests.
Another eco-conscious design is incorporating rain covers or roofs. Not only do they keep hay dry, but they also reduce the amount of spoiled feed that ends up rotting in fields. Less spoiled hay means less methane released during decomposition, making it better for the environment.
Some farmers also design feeders with dual purposes. For example, a feeder built on skids can double as a shade structure during hot months. Others build compost bins directly under feeders to collect uneaten hay and manure, turning waste into fertilizer instead of landfill material.
The eco-friendly approach is about more than just saving money—it’s about stewardship. By using resources wisely and designing feeders that last, you’re supporting a more sustainable farm ecosystem.
Building your own hay feeder is more than just a cost-saving project—it’s a way to take control of your farm, reduce waste, and improve your animals’ health. Whether you’re raising goats, sheep, cattle, or horses, the right feeder design makes feeding easier, cleaner, and more efficient. From planning and gathering tools to cutting boards and assembling frames, each step brings you closer to a practical solution that perfectly fits your farm.
By understanding the different types of feeders, tailoring designs to your animals, and utilizing affordable or recycled materials, you can save hundreds of dollars while creating a durable product. Add in regular maintenance and innovative feeding strategies, and your homemade hay feeder will serve you for many years.
Farming is all about resourcefulness, and nothing embodies that more than building your own equipment. The satisfaction of seeing your livestock eating comfortably from a feeder you built yourself is priceless. So, grab some tools, sketch a plan, and start creating—you’ll be surprised how simple, rewarding, and beneficial it really is.
1. What’s the cheapest way to build a hay feeder?
Using pallets or salvaged wood is the most affordable option. Combine them with screws or brackets, and you can build a functional feeder for under $50.
2. How do I stop goats from climbing into the feeder?
Use narrow slats (4 inches apart) and build the feeder high enough that goats can reach the hay but not jump inside. Adding a trough beneath also helps reduce climbing.
3. Can I build a hay feeder without power tools?
Yes, but it will take longer. A handsaw, hammer, and nails are enough for basic designs, though a power drill and saw make the job much faster and easier.
4. How long will a homemade hay feeder last?
With treated lumber and proper maintenance, a wooden feeder can last 5–10 years. Metal feeders may last even longer, especially if protected from rust.
5. Should hay feeders be kept inside or outside?
Both work, but outdoor feeders need weather protection. A small roof or tarp keeps hay dry and extends the life of your feeder.
Powered by Prevail Marketing copyright 2025